Madeira

Madeira is a volcano in the Atlantic, four hours from London and mostly vertical. Cloud sits below the ridges. We walk the ridge between the island's two highest peaks, spend a morning on the water off Cabo Girão, and finish on a bare volcanic headland with ocean on both sides. Nights are in Funchal Old Town, which is a walk downhill from the house.

What we’ll get up to

Friday 16 October
11:30
Gatwick North, EZY8521
15:25
Land at Funchal
16:00
Minibus up to the house, one stop for supplies
17:15
At the house
19:30
Sunset from the terrace
20:30
Dinner, TBC
Saturday 17 October
08:15
Picked up at the house
09:05
Pico do Arieiro
09:15
On the trail
13:15
Pico Ruivo, the island's highest point
14:45
Achada do Teixeira, the far trailhead
15:00
Collected
16:00
Back at the house
20:30
Dinner in the Old Town, TBC, then Rua de Santa Maria
Sunday 18 October
09:20
Walk down to the marina
10:00
Catamaran along the south coast
13:00
Back at the marina
13:15
Lunch, TBC
Afternoon deliberately empty
20:00
Dinner, TBC
Monday 19 October
09:30
Out of the house, bags in the van for the day
10:15
Ponta de São Lourenço
12:45
Back at the car park
13:15
Swim at Prainha
14:15
Long lunch in Machico, TBC
16:45
At the terminal
18:50
Wheels up, EZY8522

What to bring

  • Shoes with grip. Saturday has loose rock, wet stone steps and a lot of descent. Flat-soled trainers will not do.
  • A head torch. The PR1 tunnels are properly dark and a phone light is not enough.
  • A warm layer and something windproof. The summit runs well below coastal temperature and it is exposed.
  • Water, at least 1.5 litres. There is nowhere to refill on the ridge.
  • Swim things. Sunday off the boat, Monday at Prainha.
  • On Monday, keep a towel and a change of clothes at the top of your bag. You go hike, salt water, then a four hour evening flight.
  • Cabin bag only on the easyJet booking, 45 x 36 x 20 cm.

Where we stayBooked!

Villa Oliveira, Rochinha, twenty minutes' walk above Funchal. Four bedrooms, five beds, so three pairs share. Terrace over the harbour, pool table downstairs. Twenty minutes on foot down to the Old Town, and a five euro taxi back up at the end of the night.

  • The rooftop terrace: a long table and orange chairs, the harbour and Atlantic beyond.
  • The terrace set for dinner, above the rooftops of Funchal at golden hour.
  • A tiled walk-in shower and washbasin beneath an arched window.
  • The games room downstairs: a pool table and a wood-panelled bar.
  • The kitchen island laid with breakfast, fruit, and juice.
  • A bedroom with a cane headboard and a window onto the palms.
  • The open living and dining room, leather sofas under chandeliers.

Flights

EZY8521
Wheels up 11:30, lands 15:25
Gatwick North to Funchal, Friday 16 October
EZY8522
Wheels up 18:50, lands 22:30
Funchal to Gatwick North, Monday 19 October
Jordi S
Booked
Gaby K
Booked
Kevin C
Booked
Dino M
Booked
Hugo G
Booked
Gautier D
Own booking
Verna G
Own booking
Out from Porto on the Friday, back with everyone on the Monday

BudgetPer person

Lodging
£121
Three nights, £964.21 split eight ways
Flights
£157
Gatwick return, booked
Transport
~£74
Airport minibus, Saturday trail transfer, Monday day hire. All with drivers
Boat
~£39
Sunday catamaran, three hours
Trail fees
~£13
PR1 and PR8, paid to the Madeira forestry authority
Total
~£404
Food and drink excluded.

Q&A

Do I need to drive?
No. Nobody is driving. Every leg has a driver: the minibus from the airport, the transfer to and from Saturday's trail, and a van for the whole of Monday.
What if the weather is bad?
The forestry authority closes trails at short notice and Madeira changes its mind fast. Trail slots are booked about five days out, so we will see the forecast before we commit. If Saturday looks wrong, Saturday and Sunday swap: boat on Saturday, ridge on Sunday.
Do I need cash?
Barely. Trail fees are prepaid and cards work everywhere. Bring a bit for tips and taxis.